A 126-year-old Ottoman-era gold thread calligraphy panel, recently acquired by Associate Professor İlyas Kayaokay from an auction, has captivated viewers due to its intricate technique and historical significance.
The panel, executed on a velvet background, was made with the “dival work” method, a meticulous process also used for sacred inscriptions on the Kaaba cover.
Kayaokay highlighted that the panel measures 40 by 31 centimeters, and the gold threads are carefully stitched to create a slightly raised appearance. This centuries-old technique, originating from the Seljuks and later adopted by the Ottomans, was commonly used in mosque panels, tomb covers, banners, Quran wrappings and other decorative objects.
What makes the panel particularly valuable is its attribution to a woman artist, Vasfiye Hanım, whose name had not previously appeared in art historical records. The inscription at the bottom, known as a ketebe, confirms her authorship. While female calligraphers and embroiderers were active in the Ottoman period, signed works by women are extremely rare, making this panel a remarkable discovery.
The featured couplet reads: “Zâlimin rişte-i ikbâlini bir âh keser Mâni-i rızk olanın rızkını Allah keser,” meaning that “the sincere grievance of the oppressed can alter a tyrant’s fortune and that anyone hindering another’s provision will have their own sustenance curtailed by divine justice.”
Kayaokay noted that similar dival work examples exist, but the combination of gold thread, celî sülüs style and female authorship makes this piece unique. He added that the discovery of Vasfiye Hanım’s name may pave the way for further research into her works and contributions to Ottoman calligraphy and embroidery.
The panel is a rare example of both technical mastery and historical significance, offering information about the overlooked role of women artists in Ottoman decorative arts.
