Two fish restaurants on two opposite sides of Istanbul
EBRU ERKE
On opposite sides of Istanbul, Paraliaki and Del Mare offer two distinct fish dining experiences — one a fresh newcomer, the other a seasoned classic — both honoring the sea with simplicity, skill and soul
This week, I’ll be introducing two fish restaurants. One is a new addition in Istanbul, while the other has been around for a while but has been thoughtfully revamped. Both restaurants deliver the freshness, simplicity, and attention to detail you’d expect from a fish restaurant. They offer an authentic sea breeze experience and truly honor the quality of the fish.
What do you expect from a fish restaurant? For me, it’s quite simple: Quality ingredients, proper cooking techniques, and authenticity. As a nation that loves fish in its purest form, we believe that if fish is fresh, caught at the right time and cooked properly, it doesn’t need anything extra. If a sauce is necessary, it should complement the fish without overpowering it. In other words, dishes where you ask, “Where’s the fish?” aren’t our style. That’s our preference. As for appetizers, that’s another issue. Soy sauce and mayonnaise-laden appetizers stacked up just to increase the appetizer count don’t suit a good fish restaurant. A thick-cut, firm lakerda on thin slices of red onion, a good taramasalata, a well-prepared fava, or a warm red mullet pilaki are more than enough for me. Traditional, simple, yet thoughtfully prepared... Today, I’ll be talking about two fish restaurants I recently visited, one brand new and the other a classic along the Bosporus, both of which capture the essence and hard work of the sea.
The first one is Paraliaki. For those who remember, there used to be a delightful fish spot called Poseidon tucked away in one of Bebek’s corners. After it closed, the space remained vacant for years, until Paraliaki, a new fish restaurant, opened there. I believe it’s a perfect fit for the location. As soon as you arrive, the olive trees welcoming you at the entrance make you feel as if you’ve been transported to the Aegean in an instant. After all, Paraliaki originates from Bodrum. We first encountered Paraliaki at Bobo by The Stay in Cennet Koyu (Paradise Bay). The same figure, Nesimi Topdağ, is behind the kitchen here. Master Nesimi grew up in Deniz Restaurant, the iconic fish restaurant on Izmir’s Kordon promenade, and later worked at places like Istakozcu Can Baba and Balıkçı Niyazi in Çeşme. In other words, he is a true Aegean fish master.
Freshness is important in any restaurant, but it’s absolutely crucial in a fish restaurant. At Paraliaki, even some appetizers are made twice a day — once for lunch and again for dinner — not prepared the day before, which in itself is a sign of care. They source ingredients from all over Türkiye, with a focus on products that have geographical indications. I highly recommend trying unique items that aren’t found everywhere, like the seasonal St. Benedict’s thistle, a dish inspired by the chef’s Aegean roots. They even pair trança, a variety of the common seabream, with St. Benedict’s thistle and almonds. Another specialty of the chef is anglerfish in milk. If you’re tired of the large, bland Indian Ocean squid, be sure to try the tiny baby squid here. The grilled fish is prepared using a barbecue system that keeps it away from direct heat. Kudos to everyone who helped bring this refined fish restaurant back to Istanbul, especially Master Nesimi and Muzaffer Yıldırım, the owner.
Another fish restaurant I want to mention is Del Mare in Çengelköy. While it’s not a brand-new spot, it changed ownership recently. They updated the décor and made adjustments to the service team, but they didn’t touch the head chef in the kitchen. Changing the chef never even crossed their minds, as they know that true success often lies not in constant innovation but in the ability to consistently deliver the same quality with care over the years. A skilled fish chef is key to maintaining the stability of a restaurant. A good fish chef knows the perfect cooking time by feel, not by watching the clock. A perfect example of this was the sea bass Ali Ay cooked for us that day. He brought us a large sea bass, wrapped it with rope, and hung it above the fire, cooking it just right, constantly tending to it by the hot wood fire. The skin was crisp, the meat juicy, with a subtle smoky flavor. As soon as we finished picking the bones, the fish was elevated to another level by a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil while it was still hot.
You’ll quickly notice that there’s expertise not only in the kitchen but also in the restaurant’s dining area. They brought in Çağlar İleri, who had worked for years at Bebek Fish Restaurant. The dining room manager is crucial in a well-run fish restaurant. He’s the person who understands the customers’ habits, often placing some of their favorite appetizers on the table before the waiter even takes the order, and knows which guests prefer their fish with bones removed and which ones don’t. In fact, customers often follow him to whichever restaurant he moves to, knowing they’ll feel at ease with him in charge. In short, he’s the person everyone knows and everyone is happy to know. Mr. Çağlar is exactly that kind of dining room manager, embodying all these qualities.
A young and talented team works in the kitchen alongside Chef Ali, preparing the appetizers and warm starters. The appetizer menu includes both classic options and creative new flavors that remain balanced and refined. Del Mare is one of those rare restaurants that doesn’t lose its identity while trying to be either traditional or modern. Under the new ownership, the restaurant has seen improvements in service discipline and ambiance elegance, yet it has managed to stay true to its core character.
