Last month, I was invited to attend the Michelin Guide ceremony in Dubai. By the end of the evening, what struck me most was not so much the stars themselves, but the remarkable diversity of chefs gathered in the room. French, Italian, Japanese, Indian, Turkish, Middle Eastern… Chefs representing vastly different culinary cultures, many of whom had already established distinguished reputations both in their home countries and internationally, were all under one roof. Michelin ceremonies typically celebrate a country’s culinary heritage and the talent it has nurtured. In Dubai, however, the picture was entirely different.
Dubai’s Michelin journey began just four years ago. Today, the guide features two three-Michelin-star restaurants, four two-star establishments and 14 restaurants holding one star. Compared with Türkiye, which has yet to earn its first three-star distinction and currently has two two-star restaurants, these figures are certainly impressive. Yet what fascinates me most is how, in such a remarkably short period, Dubai has transformed itself into one of the most dynamic meeting points in the international culinary world.
Following the ceremony, I spoke with Hoor Al Khaja, Senior Vice President of International Operations at the Dubai Corporation for Tourism and Commerce Marketing, part of the Dubai Department of Economy and Tourism. I was particularly interested in understanding how much of this transformation was the result of a deliberate government strategy. “Gastronomy is one of the key pillars of Dubai’s tourism strategy,” she told me. Our conversation made it clear that the city has not simply left the development of its culinary scene to private restaurant investment. Instead, gastronomy has been integrated into its broader economic growth ambitions. Under the Dubai Economic Agenda D33, gastronomy is considered alongside tourism, investment, culture and lifestyle.
What sets Dubai apart is its ability to combine culinary investment with international visibility. It is not simply the presence of the Michelin Guide, but also the investments made by some of the world’s leading restaurant groups and the culinary events held throughout the year that together create a mutually reinforcing ecosystem. The fact that chefs such as Björn Frantzén, Yannick Alléno and Niko Romito operate restaurants in Dubai reflects more than the city’s appetite for luxury; it also speaks to its position on the global gastronomic stage. For a chef, Dubai is no longer merely another market in which to open a restaurant, but a destination from which to expand an international career.
Yet the most compelling transformation is taking place elsewhere. Dubai is no longer simply importing internationally renowned restaurant brands; it has begun exporting its own culinary concepts. Trèsind, which developed in Dubai, has opened Trèsind Mayfair in London. Kinoya, which began as a small supper club in Dubai, now operates a restaurant at Harrods in London. Saddle, meanwhile, has taken its café concept to London and Riyadh. Al Khaja sums up this shift: “Dubai’s culinary scene has matured from one that simply imports international concepts into one that exports its own homegrown brands to the world.”
This marks an important turning point. Michelin stars bring prestige to a city, but when restaurant brands born in that city begin expanding internationally, it signals something more significant: The city is no longer simply a consumer of gastronomy but has become a center of culinary creation.
Gastronomic capitals such as Paris, Tokyo, Copenhagen and Lima are celebrated not only for their international restaurants, but also for their own culinary traditions, distinctive ingredients and deeply rooted local food identities. Dubai, however, is developing a different model. Rather than being defined by a single culinary tradition, its gastronomic character is taking shape through the convergence of cuisines from around the world, much like London or New York.
This diversity is undoubtedly a tremendous asset. Yet there is an important distinction between bringing together the world’s finest chefs and developing a distinctive gastronomic identity of one’s own. This will be one of Dubai’s defining challenges in the years ahead. Can Emirati cuisine, regional culinary traditions and the everyday food cultures of the many communities that call the city home achieve the same visibility as its international fine-dining scene?
When I asked Al Khaja about the city’s future ambitions, she spoke of much more than Michelin stars. She placed particular emphasis on supporting local and independent restaurants and bringing Emirati and regional cuisines into the spotlight. Through initiatives such as Dubai Restaurant Week and Hidden Gems, the aim is to promote neighborhood restaurants alongside three-Michelin-star establishments. The growing number of restaurants recognized with Michelin’s Bib Gourmand distinction also demonstrates that Dubai’s culinary landscape extends well beyond luxury dining.
But how are the war and geopolitical tensions in the region affecting this gastronomic economy? I put that question to Al Khaja as well. She emphasized that Dubai continues to be a safe and stable destination. In August, the city welcomed 869,000 international visitors, its highest monthly figure since February. The government has also announced an AED 2.5 billion economic stimulus package to support businesses. The steady flow of tourists and the busy restaurants across the city reinforce this picture. It would seem fair to say that, despite the regional tensions, Dubai is positioning itself to emerge from this latest test with flying colors.
