Armani's men mix refinement and nonchalance
MILAN
The "king" of Italian fashion, Giorgio Armani, unveiled on Jan. 15 his latest men's collection marked by fluid cuts and soft lines.
Under the piercing blue eye of the 89-year-old maestro, projected on the runway's backdrop, models showed off the autumn-winter 2024/2025 collection in the intimate setting of his historic headquarters on Via Borgonuovo.
"Men's fashion must not be an object of desire at any cost, it must be a nice suit, a beautiful jacket, a lovely fabric, a perfect colour and nothing more, or else we descend into carnival," Armani said.
Loyal to his DNA of relaxed chic, Armani presented ample but refined trousers, and half-length unbuttoned coats that allowed freedom of movement.
For next winter, shapes have enlarged "to provide even more ease and fluidity," he said.
His signature offering, unstructured jackets with no shoulder pads or lining, were presented in a variety of styles: for a dandy with vest and pleated trousers, or in a sporty version with cargo pants tucked into boots.
The ever-existing challenge for a designer is to "do the usual in an unusual way," Armani said after the show on the fourth day of men's Fashion Week.
Ties were discreet in his show, generally thin, black or grey, hidden under a blazer or often replaced by a scarf.
"A tie depends on the occasion. We have one for the man who goes to the office, with the respect for this office, because I hope he's not going to an important meeting in a T-shirt," he said.
Armani had already presented on Jan. 13 a maritime-inspired collection for Emporio, the upscale pret-a-porter line intended for a trendier clientele.
