From soil to soul: The deeply rooted cuisine of Julien Royer
EBRU ERKE
With three Michelin stars and a soulful narrative rooted in the land, Odette is not only one of Singapore’s culinary crown jewels but also among the world’s finest—ranked 25th in the 2025 World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Some people step into the kitchen guided by recipes. Others are led there by the soil. Julien Royer belongs wholeheartedly to the latter. His earliest memories of taste were not curated in supermarket aisles but breathed in from the scent of tilled earth. He learned to sense harvest time not from a calendar, but from the rustle of leaves. He discovered how to choose produce by observing his mother’s hands and found the meaning of patience in his grandmother’s kitchen.
Raised in the heart of France, in a family that has farmed for four generations, Chef Royer believes a good ingredient is never just about quality. It must carry a memory, reflect the touch of human care and echo the effort that brought it to life. In his kitchen, every ingredient becomes a quiet tribute — to the land, to the grower, to the deeply human connection between nature and nourishment. For him, cooking is not only about flavor; it’s about listening to the past and translating it into a language of respect.
Royer is just as devoted to finding good producers as he is to sourcing good products. Every ingredient he uses is sourced from farms that honor sustainability. And in a place like Singapore, where agricultural land is scarce, he has woven a global web of relationships with small-scale producers. From Japanese fishermen to French goat cheese artisans, his network is a tapestry of trust, not transaction. On his plates, you taste not just the product, but the values behind it: Integrity, friendship and care.
Growing up close to the earth nurtures a different kind of culinary intelligence — one rooted in intimacy and dialogue. Royer didn’t learn about ingredients from packaging, but from watching seeds sprout, water run and seasons change. These experiences didn’t just teach him how to cook — they taught him how to listen. At Odette, each ingredient is honored not only for its origin but for the hands that shaped it. Even an onion, in Royer’s world, is treated not as a commodity, but as a fragile memory. Because for him, good cooking begins with attentive listening — to the land, to the people, to the rhythm of nature.
What strikes you most about Royer is not just his thoughtful ethos, but his unstoppable energy. You sense it especially when he talks about Claudine, his more casual restaurant in Singapore. Just a few minutes in his presence, and you see how this innate energy, rather than overwhelming the kitchen, becomes a finely tuned choreography. His momentum sets the pulse of the entire kitchen. Each dish, like a breath in motion, carries a kinetic curiosity. There is no stillness here — only movement, surprise and narrative. Royer’s dynamism doesn’t just animate the kitchen; it establishes an emotional and aesthetic tempo. It is a language of transformation.
And indeed, his own story is one of evolution. When he first arrived in Singapore years ago, he relied solely on French techniques and ingredients. Today, more than 17 years later, his palate has shifted. “I seek more lightness, more umami, less fat,” he says. He now brings together ingredients like wasabi flowers from Japan and Kampot pepper from Cambodia, treating them with French precision and reverence. This is not fusion for the sake of novelty — it is quiet cultural diplomacy, a meeting point of Western elegance and Eastern nuance.
That is why a meal at Odette doesn’t follow a strict progression — it unfolds like a layered memoir. The first bite recalls a memory from his childhood, the second signals a rupture, the third whispers acceptance and growth. And yet, amidst this evolving narrative, one dish has remained unchanged since the restaurant’s opening: the signature “Forest in a Cup.” A comforting trio of cep mushroom sabayon, mushroom tea and cep brioche, the dish distills the essence of Royer’s vision. It brings the forest to the table, anchoring the meal in the earth and offering guests a message from the start: “This can be as deep as a forest — open your senses.”
Even the names of Royer’s restaurants pay tribute to the women in his life — Odette is named after his grandmother and Claudine after his mother. More than familial gestures, these names reflect how he sees women as the nourishing, teaching and transmitting forces of life. What’s most striking about Odette is its ability to deliver perfection without pretension. White tablecloths preserve a sense of French refinement, but the warmth and personality of the team ensure nothing feels distant or cold. A smiling sommelier and a service captain who senses the unspoken needs of the table — together, they perform a seamless choreography that allows guests to feel at ease, seen and gently cherished.
Where to stay: Stillness and elegance at Four Seasons Singapore
If you ever need a moment’s breath away from the rapid pulse of Singapore’s orchid-lined avenues, take a quiet turn toward the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore. Though nestled in the very heart of the city, it feels suspended in a gentler kind of time. Luxury here whispers rather than shouts and comfort is always paired with grace.
Just steps from the bustling Orchard Road, the hotel is perfectly poised: close enough to the city’s rhythm, yet just removed enough to offer repose. Outside, window displays gleam with global names; inside, a different tempo reigns — soft light, lush tropical compositions and an intuitive service team that seems to anticipate your needs before you do.
One of Four Seasons Singapore’s most appreciated qualities is its ability to offer genuine calm in the midst of urban velocity. Each floor feels like a curated gallery, showcasing contemporary works from Singaporean and pan-Asian artists. Abstract forms blend seamlessly with traditional motifs — art here is not mere decoration, but an extension of the hotel’s cultivated atmosphere.
And at the center of this calm, an exceptional culinary encounter awaits: Nobu Singapore. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s globally celebrated Japanese-Peruvian cuisine meets tropical elegance in a way that feels both effortless and elevated. Think: Salmon with yuzu soy, miso-glazed black cod and wagyu tacos — each dish elegantly restrained, yet full of character. The restaurant’s design reflects the same philosophy: A harmony of Japanese minimalism and tropical openness, offering calm sophistication without austerity.
Meanwhile, Jiang-Nan Chun, the hotel’s refined Cantonese restaurant, adds another layer to the Four Seasons experience. Here, dishes like delicate dumplings and slow-roasted duck showcase both craftsmanship and heritage, in a setting that merges cultural depth with contemporary flair.
On the 20th floor, the rooftop pool offers a moment of sanctuary above the city skyline. As morning light reflects on the water, the pace of the city seems to slow. Just steps away, the spa offers rituals that bridge body and mind — treatments inspired by traditional Asian therapies, seamlessly blended with modern techniques.
Four Seasons Singapore is not just a place to stay — it’s a threshold between worlds. Amid the city’s layered brilliance, it provides a rare stillness. In a destination that always seems to move forward, this is where you learn to pause. And sometimes, true luxury lies in precisely that: the quiet power of stepping back.
