Without question, Cozy was one of Istanbul’s hottest openings last year. While many know it for its lively atmosphere, the restaurant is first and foremost a reflection of its co-founder, chef Hüseyin Kılıç. Despite being one of the city’s most ambitious chefs, he has never allowed ego to shape his cooking. His menus have always focused on comforting flavours rather than culinary showmanship, and that approach has earned him a loyal following.
As Cozy’s success naturally sparked expectations of a second branch, the team surprised everyone. Instead of expanding, they created a new concept within the same address. It is called Mini Taverna.
Hidden in the garden, it somehow makes you forget you are in the middle of Etiler. The atmosphere feels unmistakably Mediterranean. Getting a table already requires booking weeks in advance. Everything is cooked over an open fire and the menu revolves around dishes made for sharing.
Although it shares the same address as Cozy, Mini Taverna has developed a distinct identity of its own. It may also introduce a new trend to Istanbul’s restaurant scene. Instead of opening a summer outpost by the sea, Cozy created a second concept at home. At first it benefited from the reputation of its older sibling. Within weeks, however, it had already proved it could stand on its own. Hüseyin Kılıç now faces a different challenge. The question is how to carry this success into the winter months. Judging by the demand, Mini Taverna has already become every bit as popular as Cozy.
A Spanish summer on the Bosphorus
Few Spanish chefs have influenced contemporary gastronomy as much as Diego Guerrero. His Madrid restaurant, DSTAgE, holds two Michelin stars and has earned a reputation for its creative approach to modern Spanish cuisine. This summer, he brought that philosophy to Istanbul with Abelia, a seasonal restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus at The Peninsula Istanbul. Following the success of Fatih Tutak’s two Michelin-starred Gallada, Guerrero’s arrival has taken the hotel’s culinary ambitions to another level.
Last week’s Gault&Millau Signature Dining Experience felt like the true celebration of Abelia. The evening became even more memorable with the participation of internationally acclaimed pastry chef Antonio Bachour. Much of the credit belongs to Gökmen Sözen, President of Gault&Millau Türkiye. Over the years, he has built genuine friendships with many of the world’s leading chefs. As a result, many now feel at home in Türkiye. It is fair to say that Istanbul is becoming one of the world’s most important culinary capitals.
Diego Guerrero is certainly no stranger to Türkiye. He has visited many times over the years. This season, however, feels different. Istanbul has become his home for the summer. Abelia reflects the growing idea of a chef residency. Instead of recreating DSTAgE on the Bosphorus, Guerrero has developed a menu inspired by Istanbul and the Mediterranean. Together with The Peninsula Istanbul’s Executive Chef Andreas Block, he has created dishes that combine Spanish character with seasonal local ingredients.
If you visit Abelia, order the paella. It may well be the finest in the city. Guerrero’s potato dishes are equally impressive and show how an ingredient as simple as the potato can become something memorable. I also learned that he is expected to return next summer. That is welcome news for everyone who discovered Abelia this season.
Orkun BULUT, a digital nomad.
