One of the most memorable images from the 2025 Michelin Guide Ceremony was not only etched into my mind, but into the minds of almost everyone in the room. There was a brief moment of silence as the team behind Vino Locale appeared to believe they had lost their stars. Then came the announcement, the look of astonishment on their faces, the visible sense of relief that followed and the applause that rose throughout the hall. That evening, Vino Locale became only the second restaurant in Türkiye to be awarded two Michelin stars.
A few weeks ago, I sat down with Seray and Ozan Kumbasar and found myself revisiting that evening. We spoke about the journey to two Michelin stars, what changed afterward and what continues to excite them today. Yet as the conversation unfolded, I realized the story was not really about a second star. At a certain point, it was not even about Michelin. The real story was about how a restaurant finds its own voice over time, protects that voice and eventually inspires people from all corners of the world to set out on a journey simply to experience it.
Success in the world of gastronomy is often measured through outcomes. How many stars were awarded, which rankings were achieved, or which accolades were collected? Yet after years of visiting restaurants across different countries, I have come to believe that awards are not what make great restaurants truly great. What sets them apart is their ability to discover their own identity. More important than what a restaurant cooks is understanding what it wants to say. It is about defining its geography, its culture and the story it wishes to tell.
Perhaps this is where one must begin in order to understand Vino Locale’s two Michelin stars. When I asked what they had changed after receiving the second star, the answer was not new techniques, more luxurious ingredients, or more elaborate presentations. Quite the opposite. They spoke about continuing to do what they had been doing for years: Working with local producers, remaining faithful to seasonality, placing sustainability at the center of their philosophy and telling the story of the region they call home. At a time when many restaurants respond to success by expanding, growing louder and becoming increasingly visible, Vino Locale seems far more interested in deepening than in enlarging.
The part of our conversation that fascinated me most concerned the changes that followed the second star. They spoke about a noticeable increase in international guests and shared a phrase they hear frequently: “We bought a plane ticket just for you.” Perhaps this is one of the most significant milestones a restaurant can reach. This is precisely how a restaurant becomes a destination.
When you look at the world’s great gastronomic capitals, you see the same pattern repeated. People initially travel for a restaurant. Then they begin to discover the town, the region, the producers and the culture surrounding it. Eventually, the destination is no longer the restaurant alone. An entire geography becomes an object of curiosity.
When I asked them to describe the three dishes that best represent Vino Locale, their answers revealed the essence of the restaurant’s philosophy. The first was lemon parfait. It is the only dish that has remained on the menu since the day the restaurant opened. The recipe comes from Ozan Kumbasar’s mother. Yet what makes this dessert remarkable is not merely its connection to family memory. For years, the proceeds generated by the dish have been donated through the Koruncuk Foundation to support the education of girls in need. As a result, the lemon parfait has become one of the restaurant’s most meaningful creations, carrying not only flavor but also a sense of responsibility and continuity.
The second dish was the Urla Sakız Artichoke. In Ozan Kumbasar’s kitchen, the ingredient is always the protagonist. His talent as a chef is most evident not when he imposes himself upon a product, but when he allows its character to emerge with clarity. The dish is also a reflection of a deeper commitment to preserving local seeds, supporting regional agriculture and maintaining long-term relationships with producers.
The third example was not a specific dish but rather the restaurant’s ongoing relationship with offal. From söğüş to sweetbreads and various interpretations of brain, offal has long been part of the menu. These dishes are both a tribute to İzmir’s rich culinary heritage and an expression of the restaurant’s approach to sustainability. They reflect a belief that respecting an animal and the labor behind it means valuing the whole rather than selecting only the most desirable cuts.
One of the most distinctive aspects of Vino Locale’s story, however, is its connection to the Bornova Misketi grape. Wine is far more than a beverage served at the table. It is one of the most powerful storytellers of landscape, climate, history and human labor. Seray Kumbasar, who was named Michelin Sommelier of the Year in 2024, has devoted years to exploring the potential of Bornova Misketi. She has successfully encouraged the majority of producers along the Urla Wine Route to experiment with the variety and reinterpret it through different styles and expressions.
What I find particularly compelling about her approach is that the project is not merely about producing wine for today. It is about building a bridge between the past and the future. Their support for research initiatives that range from ancient grape seeds to the history of viticulture forms part of that vision. They understand that the future of gastronomy is not built solely in the kitchen. It is also built through memory. Perhaps this is where the essence of the entire story lies.
The success of Vino Locale is not simply the result of cooking exceptional food. It comes from believing in its own story. Believing in its geography. Believing in its producers. And continuing to tell that story with the same conviction year after year.
