A culinary meander through Copenhagen
EBRU ERKE
In Copenhagen’s star-studded culinary scene, we embark on a flavor-filled journey that stretches from burgers to ice cream, from smørrebrød to the kitchens of Michelin-starred chefs. Alongside three-star Jordnær’s chef Eric Vildgaard and chef Umut Sakarya, we explore the city’s streets and palates alike. Here, Nordic innovation and traditional techniques meet on every plate
Copenhagen is one of those cities that never fails to thrill me — every visit feels like stepping into the heart of a culinary revolution. After all, this is where the flame of New Nordic cuisine was first lit. And each return brings a chance to witness the next wave — talented chefs, many of whom trained under the region’s greats, stepping into the spotlight with new ventures.
This time, I explored the city with two chefs I deeply admire: Umut Sakarya and Eric Kragh Vildgaard, the mastermind behind the three Michelin-starred Jordnær. It was a tour filled with surprises, indulgence and thoughtful techniques.
We began our journey with something decidedly casual — but no less refined: A visit to one of the city’s most talked-about burger spots, Dandelion Burger. In Copenhagen, the burger craze exploded during the pandemic, when several renowned chefs — René Redzepi among them — pivoted toward more approachable concepts. Dandelion serves just two kinds of burgers: One meat, one vegetarian.
What sets the beef burger apart is its use of organic Danish beef, enhanced with a surprising twist — about 20 percent bone marrow from the same animal is folded into the mix. This gives the patty an impossibly tender, juicy texture and deep, meaty flavor. The burger is crowned with aged cheddar, a house-made truffle mayo, and finely chopped pickles, all tucked inside a soft, pillowy bun made daily at Buka — the bakery owned by the chef’s brother.
The vegetarian option is no afterthought: a crisp-fried oyster mushroom patty, served with a vibrant tamarind and mango sauce and spiked with spicy Japanese mayo. Both were outstanding — thoughtful, bold, and packed with flavor. A word to the wise: Dandelion Burger gets busy as soon as it opens at 11 AM. And while you’re there, stop by Buka for some of the city’s finest pastries. Whether it’s a pistachio cream croissant with your coffee or a loaf of bread to take home, you won’t be disappointed.
Next up, dessert. Umut insists we head to Istid, which he calls “the best ice cream in the city.” What makes it unique? Each scoop is made to order, right before your eyes. The process begins with fresh ingredients and local milk, which are blended into a creamy base. Once you’ve chosen your flavor, the liquid mixture is poured into a KitchenAid mixer, followed by a dramatic splash of liquid nitrogen — Istid’s signature touch.
This flash-freezing technique eliminates the need for high sugar levels, which are typically used to manage texture in conventional methods. Here, the nitrogen locks in creaminess instantly, allowing the flavor of the ingredients to shine. The result? A voluptuous, velvety ice cream with impeccable smoothness and clean, bold taste. It’s more than dessert — it’s a performance.
No trip to Denmark would be complete without smørrebrød, of course. Copenhagen offers no shortage of options, but today we follow Umut’s lead to his personal favorite: Palægade. This elegant, design-driven space elevates smørrebrød — once a humble, resourceful dish born from Denmark’s leaner years — to an art form.
Traditionally made by layering leftovers atop a slice of rye bread, smørrebrød at Palægade is anything but rustic. You can choose from a selection that includes shrimp, meats, or six varieties of herring. My standout pick? The fried herring, served with a luxurious leek cream and brightened with a yuzu vinaigrette. A signature bite that lingers long after the last forkful.
One of our first stops was Osten ved Kultorvet, a tiny cheese shop tucked away in the heart of the city, where visiting feels like a crash course in dairy. Umut always stocks up here when he visits Copenhagen, and now I know why. The owner, an older gentleman and true cheese master, personally selects every single cheese from small, organic dairies across the country. Shopping here is a slow, mindful process — he takes his time to let you taste each cheese he thinks matches your palate, explaining the story and nuances behind each one.
One standout was the “Fyrmester,” which means “lighthouse keeper.” It’s a cow’s milk cheese matured in seaside caves, and its surprising notes of butter and roasted hazelnuts leave a long, savory finish. Another revelation was a blue cheese called “Bla Grube,” which was recommended as a Danish response to English Stilton. It was gentler, silkier, and far more elegant than any blue cheese I’ve tasted.
Another place I love for casual gourmet bites is Torvehallerne, a food hall made up of two airy glass pavilions. While most of what’s sold here is fresh produce or ingredients, there are plenty of reasons to visit even if you’re not grocery shopping. Don’t leave without picking up some fermented butter — it’s rich, tangy, and often sold at the cheese stalls. You can have it slathered inside warm bread from one of the nearby bakeries or pack some to take home.
One of my favorite corners in Torvehallerne is Hav, a fishmonger that turns into a gourmet seafood bar. The catch of the day is displayed like a Nordic still life, and what’s more — you can pick any seafood you fancy, and they’ll prepare it before your eyes with the finesse of a fine-dining kitchen. Just grab a seat at the long bar, and enjoy a dish as fresh and elegant as any Michelin plate.
The second half of my Copenhagen visit was spent with Eric Kragh Vildgaard, chef and co-owner of the three-Michelin-starred Jordnær, and his wife and partner Tina. We met at their favorite family retreat, the enchanting Nimb Hotel — a place that looks like it’s been plucked from the pages of One Thousand and One Nights. From the outside, it gives nothing away, but once you step through the main entrance and into the restaurant, you find yourself looking out onto Tivoli Gardens.
Don’t be surprised if a peacock struts across the terrace while you sip your coffee — just quietly reach for your phone and capture the magic.
Inside, the hotel’s high-ceilinged bar is one of the city’s most iconic spaces, and as Eric explained, it holds historical significance, too. In the 1920s, legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier spent time here, hosting grand dinner parties in what is now the bar. This is where Danish cuisine was first plated and styled with the techniques of French gastronomy, marking the country’s first steps toward a culinary identity of its own.
When I asked Eric about his favorite place to eat in the city, his answer was instant: Levi. This restaurant, led by Italian chef Andrea Calducci, is a love letter to both Italian and Chinese cuisines — brought to life with pristine Danish ingredients. Eric admires Andrea’s bold yet balanced style, and after dining there, so do I.
One of the chef’s signature dishes, wagyu rice cake, still lingers in my mind: a crispy rice base topped with a near-translucent slice of wagyu beef, brushed with truffle oil and umami-rich Asian sauces. It’s designed to be eaten in one perfect bite. Another highlight was the spaghetti with fresh lobster in yuzu-miso sauce — simple, precise and yet remarkably layered. And whatever you do, don’t skip dessert: The pistachio ice cream served with a punchy, peppery Italian olive oil is pure poetry.
Where to Stay
We all know the Nordics lead the way when it comes to design, so it’s no surprise that the world’s first official “design hotel” was born right here in Copenhagen. The Radisson Collection Royal Hotel (formerly the SAS Royal Hotel) is more than just a place to sleep — it’s a milestone in global architecture and design.
Designed by Danish architect and designer Arne Jacobsen in 1960, this 22-story skyscraper was inspired by New York’s Lever House. Every inch of the hotel — from its sleek façade to the cutlery and light fixtures — was designed by Jacobsen himself. His iconic Egg, Swan, Drop chairs and 3300 series sofas grace the interiors and have become timeless design classics, now produced by Fritz Hansen.
Room 606 is the only one that still preserves Jacobsen’s original design. With its mossy green furnishings, warm wood paneling and sculptural lighting, it offers a glimpse into 1960s modernist elegance. Even today, it attracts architecture students and design lovers from around the world.
Here’s a quirky detail: In the hotel’s early years, the adjacent building served as an airport terminal. Travelers could check-in for their flights right in the hotel lobby before heading out to the runway.
