Until now, chefs emerging from Mengen have formed the backbone of Turkish cuisine; the new generation represented by Şafak Erten, however, adds a layer of intellect to that foundation
I have been following Şafak Erten since the very beginning of his career. What I see today is not just a well-run kitchen, but a new gastronomic system that stretches from producer to plate.
When I first met Şafak, he was at the start of his journey. Long hours in the kitchen, physical exhaustion, discipline and patience… Those early years — often romanticized by young culinary aspirants today — reveal their true nature only once you are inside them. He was one of those who lived through that reality in its rawest form. Over the years, what I came to understand while observing him is this: a great chef is not built merely through time, but through perspective.
At this point in his career, describing Şafak Erten simply as the chef of Octo at JW Marriott Bosphorus would be insufficient. What he has built represents far more than a kitchen. In fact, what we see in his work is a tangible example of a new chef model gradually taking shape in Turkey. Şafak comes from the Bolu–Mengen tradition, a lineage deeply rooted in the country’s culinary identity. Yet what sets him apart is not the mere continuation of this legacy, but his ability to reinterpret it in a contemporary language. Born into a family where cooking spans generations — grandfather to father — he has chosen not only to preserve that heritage, but to transform it.
Until now, chefs emerging from Mengen have formed the backbone of Turkish cuisine; the new generation represented by Şafak, however, adds a layer of intellect to that foundation. What is emerging today is no longer just a chef who cooks well, but one who understands what he does and why he does it — who builds this understanding into a system and communicates it with clarity.
Today, a chef’s mastery is no longer defined solely by the dishes they create, but by the integrity of the system they establish. That system begins long before the plate. Where the product comes from, who produces it, in which season it is harvested and how it is handled — these are the elements that define the structure. Looking at Şafak’s network of producers, one sees a geography that stretches from Muğla to Hatay, from Milas to Urla. Women’s cooperatives, small-scale producers, direct relationships… This is no longer a conventional supply chain; it is a gastronomic ecosystem.
More importantly, this approach is not constructed as a “trend,” but as a reflex. Şafak was among the first winners of the “Under 35 Young Chefs” competition organized by Dude Table. Yet what truly matters is not the visibility such platforms provide, but the intellectual depth they help cultivate. Following this recognition, he deepened his engagement with sustainability and placed it firmly at the center of his kitchen.
In Şafak’s cuisine, the sustainability memory of Anatolia meets contemporary technique. What appears on the plate is often simple — at first glance, even minimal. Yet behind that simplicity lies a highly sophisticated way of thinking. His homemade couscous with blue-tail shrimp is a perfect example. On one side, the sea; on the other, one of Anatolia’s most fundamental staples. But the true story is not the technical union of these two elements; it is the relationship established with the woman who produces the couscous and the chef’s personal involvement in that process.
This is precisely where the new generation of chefs distinguishes itself.
Anyone can use the same ingredient. What differentiates one from another is how they engage with it, the relationship they build around it and the narrative they convey to the guest. As Şafak himself emphasizes, technique can be learned and discipline can be acquired. But what separates a good chef from an average one is the meaning they assign to their work and the perspective they construct.
This perspective extends beyond the kitchen. The workshops at Octo, the tasting corners, the conversations around olive oil and pickling… These go far beyond the conventional functioning of a restaurant. Here, the chef is not merely a cook, but also a storyteller and a transmitter of knowledge. He does not simply feed his guests; he offers them context. The strong interest shown by international guests in these narratives highlights the immense potential of Turkish gastronomy. When communicated effectively, this geography offers not just flavor, but a complete cultural experience.
Today, a new chef profile is emerging in Turkey. Rooted in this land, yet globally aware; deeply knowledgeable about the product, yet unafraid to reinterpret it; and, above all, capable of thinking beyond the plate. Şafak Erten stands as one of the clearest examples of this transformation. The impact of this approach on Turkish gastronomy will extend far beyond the creation of good restaurants. It will strengthen ties with producers, allow local products to realize their true value, create more meaningful intersections between gastronomy and tourism, and most importantly, enable the knowledge embedded in Anatolia to be communicated to the world with clarity and depth.
At this point, it is also important to note that the success of a kitchen is never the achievement of a chef alone. At Octo, the harmony established between the kitchen and the front-of-house — led by Alican Küçükleroğlu — and the ability of the service team to convey the story accurately are essential components of this whole. Likewise, the support of the hotel’s general manager, Ediz Tuncer, and his commitment to this vision provide the necessary ground for a chef to build a system at this level. Because in gastronomy, true success is only possible when the kitchen, the dining room and management speak the same language.
