Off the beaten path: Efeler way

İZMİR

Türkiye has a new long-distance hiking trail. Imagine walking 500 km over about 30 days, passing through mountains, valleys, waterways, even by a lake and visiting remote villages — all this wild countryside just a stone’s throw from Izmir, the third biggest city in the country. The trail starts from Bornova, goes eastwards inland, makes a loop towards Ephesus and ends at St. Mary Church. Not to be compared with the pilgrimage motive of The Camino de Santiago, but even non-pious hikers can feel the holy vibe at the very end and receive the blessing of St. Mary for their devotion.

Efe and Zeybek culture

Efeler Yolu (Efeler Way) is a recently marked hiking trail named after the heroic Efe culture of the Aegean region. Efe, also a popular men’s name in Türkiye, was a generic title given to rebellious, courageous young men in the Ottoman Aegean who lived somewhat like outlaws, mostly in the mountains. An Efe is usually the leader of a group of Zeybek people. In Western Anatolia, Zeybeks are men who rebel against oppression, injustice and tyranny. They are seen as “pro-poor warriors” who do not submit to injustice. In other words, they are people who say no to injustice. When people are overwhelmed by oppression, unbridled exploitation and encirclement and lose hope that conditions will improve, feelings of rebellion develop. This is where the Zeybek steps in.

As the old proverb goes, “If the wolf is overwhelmed, he goes down to the village; if the man is overwhelmed, he goes up to the mountain,” meaning, in a sense, to divorce oneself from one's bonds and step out of traditional life. As the individual breaks free, they become liberated, even if they cannot perfectly predict the outcome of their actions. In this sense, Zeybeks were the community of free comrades of the mountaintops. In other words, the union of Zeybeks was an unofficial alliance based on comradeship. An Efe and his Zeybek pals protected the villagers and helped them when needed, pretty much acting like Robin Hood, coming to the rescue of the poor. Those who took part in this unity were partners in joy and sorrow, enduring life in the mountains together. Regarding joy, Zeybeks were never short of it; they took every opportunity to sing and dance, carrying their three-string instruments like swords or rifles. Today, the Zeybek dance is the most popular Aegean folk dance, almost always performed by the groom at a wedding as a heroic, manly gesture to the bride.

Gastronomic way

Efeler Way is not all about hiking and trekking. One can also follow the route by vehicle, taking occasional short walking breaks, but the most interesting part is discovering the remote villages, each with its own charm. Visiting the villages, one can taste the local produce and signature flavors of the inner Aegean region, ranging from delicious local cheeses to famed fruits such as plump cherries, indigenous grapes and honey-dripping figs. While the mountains and countryside provide the greatest grazing terrain for sheep and goats, hence delicious yogurt and cheeses, they also offer the freshest wild edible greens for people to forage. The highlands and valleys offer the most favorable climate for fruit orchards, vineyards, olive groves and field crops. Nif Mountain hosts Nif Winery and the famed Kavaklıdere vineyards stretch for miles like a green sea. Highlights include the magnificent Çakırağa Mansion in the historic town of Birgi, and the huge Tire weekly market held each Tuesday, probably one of the most amazing markets to visit across the globe with its 1,800 stalls. Tasting pide, the famous topped flatbread in Ödemiş, is a must, and if you like meat, do not skip the tak tak kebab or Tire köfte. The heavenly smell of freshly baked chickpea yeast bread wafting from bakeries attracts passersby like a magnet. The black mulberry sherbet poured over shaved ice quenches the thirst of tired shoppers at Tire Pazarı, which opens early in the day with a prayer — a vow to follow the code of trade ethics, a tradition that goes back 600 years.

Efeler Way is a challenge!

Türkiye has a few notable historic trails, including the widely known Lycian Way and Carian Trail, among many others, but the Efeler Way promises a challenge for the curious traveler. Whether you are a keen trekker, a leisurely outdoor explorer, or just like taking the countryside road off the highway, you’ll be rewarded. You’ll discover lovely towns — some still lively, some like ghost towns perched high on hills like an eagle’s nest — pick fruit from trees, forage wild herbs, picnic on local produce, sip tea or coffee with villagers and taste wonderful regional dishes.

Efe and Zeybek culture is deeply engraved in the hearts of Aegean people. Seen as outlaw bandits by the Ottoman rulers, they were considered the true defenders of the land and its people. In this context, Efeler Way is a just name for this “off the beaten path” trail, going through the geography of Efe and Zeybek culture. Dr. Özgün Özkaya, the creator and manager of the Efeler Way, was attracted to these mountains since childhood, where he hiked with his father. Later, when he specialized in physical education and sports, he pursued his love for trekking and began to discover the Efe and Zeybek culture — how they mastered living in the wild. Finally, when his dream of marking a trekking route in the Bozdağ and Aydın mountains came to life, there was only one name for the route: it had to be Efeler Way/Efeler Yolu, emphasizing not only the physical path but also the way of life they chose. The 28-stage medium-difficulty track can be challenging for some, but the route highlights are worth visiting by car as well. With its motto “Efeler Way is a challenge!” this route invites you to take the path less traveled, with guaranteed reward.