In recent years, Barcelona has become a city that I visit repeatedly. Interestingly, it is often for a congress, or an event, seldom just for pleasure. That means I’m always in a rush, never finding the time to plan some spare time to enjoy myself. Every single time, I say to myself, I must come back, just to enjoy this lovely city. This time, there is no spare time again; the occasion is oddly a ski event, up in the Spanish Pyrenees, for the annual meeting of the Ski Club of International Journalists (SCIJ). Thanks to the Spanish team, we’re having our 71st year event in Boi Taüll, a hidden gem in Vall de Boi, the valley dotted with exceptional 11th and 12th century Romanesque churches registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Central yet quietly elegant
As I write these words in my direct flight from Ankara to Barcelona, I’m very much excited about visiting this unique region, and of course, hitting the slopes again. I’ll do my best to avoid the cross-country race, following my doctor’s advice, volunteering to join the soup troop to cook soup for the racers. As the flight takes off, I dream about my recent visit to Barcelona back in November. The highlight of that trip was our stay at the Monument Hotel, and a memorable dining experience we had there. The five-starred elegant property is in a heritage building, with a prime location on Passeig de Gràcia, the shopping address for many luxury brands. As I sipped my welcome Cava in the silent lobby, I heard whispers of Turkish spoken a few times. Apparently, many Turkish customers have already discovered the place; actually, there are a lot of Turkish people making Barcelona their second home. The hotel’s exceptional location is maybe best evident at the rooftop, an ideal spot for having your complimentary drink; the view overlooking the rooftops of Barcelona, and especially the almost face-to-face view of Gaudí’s masterpiece Casa Battló, is a delight. The breakfast is also served on the roof, good for a nice breezy “al fresco” start for a wonderful sunny day; alternatively, you can chill at the rooftop pool, but in November, I just did not feel like having a dip.
High-end culinary experience
The Monument Hotel might be a gem in the heart of Barcelona, but the true gem is the culinary experience it offers. The three-Michelin-starred Lasarte restaurant is a treasure to explore, but there is even a secret beyond that: “Il Milione.” It is not another restaurant, but a single table that is situated in a mezzanine room that overlooks the kitchen, only reached by a staircase from the Lasarte restaurant. It feels like a cavernous, hidden treasure trove. The title is not randomly chosen; it represents the unique exclusivity and the high-end culinary experience it promises. As you are led by the smiling, friendly staff up the stairs, you instantly feel kind of pampered in a very special way. Then you step into an almost theatre, or an opera like tasting experience that will last for hours. With each step, and every taste that comes to the table, there is another sensory experience, another act that feeds the narrative based on the sea, the land, the forest and the mountains. Starting with oyster from the sea and gilded butter and caviar, you sense that this is an exceptional tasting. As you go through creatively presented plates, you forget about time. I must confess that we were a bit astounded when we realized that our lunch lasted more than five hours.
This one singular experience is a Lasarte exploration masterminded by the iconic Spanish chef Martín Berasategui and his Italian executive chef Paolo Casagrande. Lasarte was awarded 3 Michelin stars back in 2017, as the first restaurant in Barcelona to receive 3 stars. Casagrande comes from Treviso, the Veneto region, and Berasategui is from the Basque Country; their mutual affection for the sea shines through the menus of both Lasarte and Il Milione, ideally fit for Barcelona, a city that embraces the Mediterranean. In a way, their Basque and Veneto culinary backgrounds meet in Catalunya, reflecting the typical Catalan surf and turf “mars i muntanya” tastes of the sea and the mountains. When I first visited Lasarte a couple of years back, the menu was heavy on seafood, but respecting my allergies, they did provide truly creative alternatives, which made me feel special, and Lasarte is all about making you feel special. At that point, a special mention goes to the head of service and sommelier Joan Carles Ibáñez. His big smile and knowingly welcoming attitude hug you from the first step to the restaurant, and you feel safe and pampered in his presence. Nowadays, this is a rare quality to find in the hospitality sector. He is definitely the maestro of the show in both Lasarte and Il Milione, two dining experiences I still dream of.
My dream ends when my plane lands, now it is time to get another taste of this wonderful city, a Cava or a Vermouth maybe, and of course, some fried padron peppers, olives and patatas bravas to go along. Hola Barcelona, I’m back again!
