Ancient glamour, modern bites
EBRU ERKE
Pantheon, which opened this winter in Kuruçeşme, celebrates the spirit of Istanbul with an ancient luxury; it brings together the past and the future in a unique atmosphere with a masterfully crafted menu.
A well-built host greets you at the door. After your reservation is checked, you are invited in. At first glance, Pantheon reminds me of those chic club restaurants in London: My first feelings about Pantheon, which takes its name from the famous structure meaning "temple dedicated to all gods" in Ancient Greece, are that it is elegant and comfortable, sophisticated yet intimate. The specially designed NFT video installation and Latin mottos projected onto the dome of the venue invite guests to a visual journey. This video flow changes over time according to the rhythm of the night. And the energy of the venue infects you the moment you step inside.
Now let's get to the part that interests us most, the kitchen. Emir Kaan is at the head of the open kitchen that will catch your eye on the left side of the entrance. Chef Emir Kaan has worked in kitchens such as Neolokal, Efendy and most recently Scorpios. There is another important name that Chef Emir received support from while creating the menu: Can Aras. You know Chef Can from Amavi in Alaçatı, which is on the Michelin list. But my acquaintance with him goes back much further, long enough to know how he reflects the engineering perspective he received from his education on his plates. As such, this menu created by Chefs Emir and Can really intrigued me.
The first thing I felt when I looked at the menu was that the chefs were looking for ways to open their doors to more people. Creating a menu that appeals to a wide audience is perhaps one of the most difficult tests of a chef’s journey. Because the issue here is not just being very creative, but being able to translate that creativity into a language that everyone can understand and feel. In other words, while continuing to tell your own story in the kitchen, being able to leave a small space for your guest's story. Not everyone wants to experience fine dining; but everyone loves a well-made, characterful meal. I saw exactly this balance in Pantheon's menu; plates that are expertly simplified while preserving their style.
The menu may seem basic at first glance: Familiar names, comfortable ingredients. But the finely crafted details on each plate reveal themselves. Sometimes they manage to make your palate smile with a refined sauce, sometimes with meat cooked so well that you respect it with every bite.
The starters are prepared in large portions for sharing. The carpaccio is interpreted with the tataki technique, meaning that the meat is not completely raw but left slightly cooked on the outside and raw in the middle. It is served with truffle aioli sauce, parmesan and arugula. Two of the salads in particular are the kind that I would never get tired of eating at any time of the day and every day. The first is the Grilled Romaine prepared with Yedikule lettuce, Caesar aioli sauce and sausage powder, and the other is the Bloody Kale, or kale greens salad, blended with blueberry vinaigrette, cashew and citrus.
Here are the ones that caught my attention from the hot appetizers that you can share as well: Japanese style chicken thigh skewers served with paprika aioli, blue tail shrimp tempura and merguez sausage served with mustard mashed potatoes. Actually, this is exactly what I wanted to talk about at the beginning of the article. Plates that appeal to different palates, that may seem ordinary at first glance but you will see that they are full of technical details when they come to you. The pasta and risotto section has also been prepared with this balance in mind.
Now for the main courses. Seabass, dry-aged four to five days, is served with ajo blanca and chimichurri sauce. While we are on the subject, let us also remind you that Can Aras was the first chef in our country to apply dry aging to fish, a technique normally seen with red meat, much to our delight. Forty-five-day dry aged beef is plated with jus and roasted carrots. Braised beef ribs, which are cooked quite well, are made even more delicious with polenta and za’atar gremolata.
There is also something nice about the dessert menu. When you order the Baba au Rhum dessert, which is the third dessert on the menu after tiramisu and chocolate fudge, the fee goes to the Contemporary and Independent Solidarity Association.
A chef expressing himself while not forgetting the person in front of him... This is one of the indicators of professional maturity. Pantheon is ideal not only for those who want to eat well but also for those who want to have a pleasant time. The restaurant turns into an experience that meets music in the later hours. Different concepts such as DJ performances, dinner theater and jazz concerts invite guests to the dynamic rhythm of Istanbul nightlife. While the sophisticated spirit is preserved with the mandatory dress code, the aim is to bring not only a new experience but also a brand-new community to Istanbul.
