London Fashion Week, better known for nurturing new talent than for its big-name shows, kicks off on Thursday with a tribute to one of its stalwarts Paul Costelloe.
The Irish-American designer, who died aged 80 last November, was a regular fixture on the opening day of the British capital's fashion week since the inception of the show in 1984.
Over four decades, his romantic, sartorial catwalks remained a constant: witness to the rise and fall of London Fashion Week (LFW) which has seen the departure of big fashion names to its counterparts in Milan, Paris and New York in recent years.
His son William Costelloe is now the creative director of the brand, which wrote on social media ahead of its LFW Autumn/Winter 2026 opening show: "A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward."
Notable names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn will return to the catwalk in London, with Burberry closing the week in its usual fashion on Monday evening.
Other labels will bring a royal flavor to the runway, with brands worn by Princess Catherine including Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem putting on shows.
However, there will be no show from the breakout Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, who was one of the most eagerly awaited at London Fashion Week in recent seasons.
The 41-year-old took over at Dior last June, leaving him little time for his own brand, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008.
For several years, London has been losing ground to its star-studded rivals in Paris and Milan, but it has clung onto its role as a breeding ground for young talent.
The British Fashion Council's NewGen initiative provides funding for emerging talent, with several up-and-coming designers finding their stride at LFW through the incubator.
Designers like Simone Rocha, Tolu Coker and Roksanda have become fashion week mainstays after making their debut on the NewGen catwalk.
French designer Pauline Dujancourt, known for her work with knitwear, also chose to stick with London Fashion Week after her studies at Paris's Ecole Duperre and Central Saint Martins in London.
