Catalan route: Tapestry of flavor, history

AYLİN ÖNEY TAN

Some journeys, I find, begin long before you turn the key in the ignition. They start with a flicker of inspiration, a story that captures the imagination. Gastronomy, culture, art, history and nature. These keywords alone make me filled with inspiration to explore. Sometimes you hit the road just to see a monument, or to taste a single exceptional cheese and savor a chef’s creations, or to feel the nature standing on top of a mountain facing a breathtaking view. Now, imagine all combined into one route, creating a complete discovery experience. “Grand Tour of Catalunya” delivers exactly that. The tour features over 350 points of interest and over 400 different experiences along the way, and the way is indeed a long way. When one aims to do the full circle, starting and ending in Barcelona, covering all five stages, you cover about 2,100 kilometers, which will take you at least a good 13 days, even more if you take your time and slip sideways.

Food-focused road trip

Food enthusiasts will remember it. There was a wonderful 2008 American food and travel series called “Spain… On The Road Again.” Four food lovers toured different regions of Spain by car, tasting their way across the country, discovering incredible food and exploring each region’s local flavors. It was a rather odd group of four, but they had one focus: The Food. American actress Gwyneth Paltrow, Iron Chef Mario Batali and New York Times food writer Mark Bittman were accompanied by Spanish actress Claudia Bassols. The show tempted one to hop on a plane to Spain, rent a car, and hit the road. At one point, I had even drafted a script for a similar series with an award-winning documentary group in America but then we failed to find a sponsor, the crew moved on to other projects and the project was shelved. It was surely a missed opportunity.

Years later, the reason I’m remembering this TV series of a food-focused road trip is because of my recent visit to the Spanish side of the Pyrenees Mountains. I was there for the 71st meeting of the SCIJ, the Ski Club of International Journalists, held in the Pyrenean ski haven of Boí Taüll. While our gatherings involve ski races and debates on journalism, the true soul of our annual meeting lies in immersing ourselves in the local culture and gastronomy. I remember my first meeting in Baqueira-Beret fondly when I joined the club 10 years ago. I was my first time in the Pyrenees, and I fell in love with the Romanesque churches in the Alta Ribagorça region and the vernacular architecture of Val d’Aran. It was particularly inspirational for me as I’m originally an architect specialized in conservation, and the villages dotting the valleys of the Catalan Pyrenees are a must-visit for anyone who is passionate about vernacular architecture. UNESCO World Heritage list recognizes the “Catalan Romanesque Churches of Vall de Boí” featuring nine early Christian churches dating from the 11th to the 12th centuries, all picturesquely located in a well-preserved rural Pyrenean setting. The conservation work of the frescoes in the church of Sant Climent de Taüll is particularly interesting as a well-executed scientific rescue work of mural art. I remember promising myself to come back to the region again, but I had to wait for a decade. When Spain volunteered to host this year’s meeting, it was like the mermaid’s call for me. I was destined to go back to Catalonia, and to my surprise, on our first day, there was a presentation on a road trip route that reawakened my old dream of a grand Spanish road trip: The Grand Tour of Catalonia.

Explore Catalonia!

Road trips are like a mermaid’s call for a travel lover like me. Compared to any other means of travel, hopping on a car and hitting the road ready to explore wherever the road brings you is a total thrill. Designed by the Catalan Tourism Agency (ACT), this is not merely a route but a 2,000-kilometer narrative, a curated exploration of the region’s culture, nature, and soul. It’s a 13-day loop that begins and ends in Barcelona but truly unfolds on the open road. It’s an invitation to see beyond the city and discover the heartland.

Here is a taste of the five stages that make up this incredible tapestry.

Stage 1: Barcelona to Tarragona – A Toast to Vineyards! The adventure begins by winding through the sun-drenched Penedès vineyards. Here, you can immerse yourself in the world of Cava, learning the story behind its famous bubbles. The path then leads to the ancient port of Tarragona, a UNESCO World Heritage site where the whispers of the Roman Empire still echo among the magnificent ruins.

Stage 2: Tarragona to Lleida – Into the Heart of Nature and Time! Turning inland, the route guides you to the Ebro Delta, a breathtaking wetland sanctuary teeming with birdlife. This chapter is a pilgrimage through time, passing serene historic monasteries and through landscapes where olive oil is not just a product, but a legacy. The journey culminates in the historic city of Lleida.

Stage 3: Lleida to La Seu d’Urgell – The Majesty of the Pyrenees! Now, the road ascends to the heavens. The majestic Pyrenees await with their dramatic peaks and soaring vistas. This is a land of deep valleys, pristine national parks, and some of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque art, hidden away in ancient churches. The Boí Valley itself is a dual treasure: a UNESCO World Heritage site for its architecture, and its summer solstice fire festival is a piece of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. For nature lovers, adventurers, and winter skiers, this is paradise found.

Stage 4: La Seu d’Urgell to Figueres – Volcanoes, Medieval Dreams, and a Touch of Madness! The landscape transforms into the unique, otherworldly terrain of the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. You can wander through the timeless, cobbled streets of medieval villages like Besalú before arriving in Figueres, the town that gave the world the surrealist genius of Salvador Dalí.

Stage 5: Figueres to Barcelona – Surreal Shores and a Sacred Return! After stepping into Dalí’s world, the journey turns south to embrace the Mediterranean along the stunning Costa Brava. Its enchanting coves and charming fishing villages are a final, beautiful coastal memory. But before completing the circle back in Barcelona, one last pilgrimage is essential: a visit to the iconic monastery, perched impossibly on the sacred mountain of Montserrat.

This is only a very brief summary of the Catalan experience. This Grand Tour is more than a travel plan; it is a map to the very soul of Catalonia. And I bet that once you get on the road, you will find countless discoveries all your own.