Istanbul, the gastronomic city

ISTANBUL

Last week, the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce organized a one-day conference titled “The Century of Istanbul Cuisine,” to explore the city’s culinary culture through historical, social and cultural lenses. Held on Feb. 7, the conference brought together numerous academics, researchers, journalists and industry representatives and, most importantly, some of the century-old institutions in the hospitality sector. Participants focused on examining the transformation of Istanbul cuisine from the early years of the Republic to the present day within the framework of urban life, cultural memory, eating and drinking habits and the gastronomy ecosystem. Throughout the program, the historical development and cultural accumulation of Istanbul cuisine were evaluated alongside contemporary culinary trends.

It’s hard to define a megacity like Istanbul by its cuisine, or to talk about a singular Istanbul cuisine. However, when we need to define what Istanbul cuisine is about, we need to discuss multiple characteristics of the culinary life in the city in every respect. However, when it comes to Istanbul, as with everything else, minds become confused and defining the boundaries of its cuisine becomes difficult. When we say Istanbul cuisine, our minds drift a little to the past. We immediately make a connection to the Ottoman palace kitchen, creating a perception of a cuisine that belongs to the past, to olden times. Another perception is that Istanbul cuisine is an elite cuisine, different from Anatolian cuisine. So then, what is Anatolian cuisine? Is it necessarily rural? Or should we call it peasant cuisine? So then, are the dishes made in Anatolian cities not urban enough? Where and how can the line be drawn? All these questions are quite confusing, but Istanbul undoubtedly has a past and diversity that make it truly worthy of being called a city of gastronomy.

Cosmopolitan city

Above all else, Istanbul is an imperial capital. The food culture that developed around the palace reflects on the city, shaping its taste. The finest, most select ingredients come to Istanbul. Being easily accessible by sea also plays a part in this. The high-quality ingredients that reach the palace and elite circles also reflect on the rest of the city, with the best and newest goods found in Istanbul’s markets. When we talk about Istanbul, multiculturalism is one of the first elements that comes to mind. When defining Istanbul cuisine, ethnic influences inevitably come into play. Starting with the Greek, Armenian and Jewish triad, sometimes one might think that there used to be a distinction as if these cuisines could be defined by separable boundaries. However, that was not the case.

All Istanbulites spoke the same culinary language, enjoyed the same food and cooked in similar ways, though, of course, with certain dietary religious restrictions. Of course, given the many empires that have existed in Istanbul throughout history, the existence of different ethnic and religious structures is a given fact. But we cannot speak of completely separate cuisines. Istanbul has a unifying power. The rich, cosmopolitan culinary culture created by people of different origins sometimes blends together and sometimes diverges, especially during religious celebrations. Ultimately, however, Istanbul has always been like a magnet, attracting the best of the best. When the best of every ingredient brought to Istanbul comes together, an extremely rich, diverse and shared culinary culture emerges.

The cultural diversity of the past may be gone today, but there is a completely different kind of diversity in today’s Istanbul. Istanbul is now like a giant Anatolia, home to people from every corner of Anatolia. Now, the cuisines of many provinces are well represented in Istanbul, and sometimes regional cuisines can even be found better in Istanbul than locally. Today, they all come together to create a culinary mosaic. In a sense, Anatolia is now in Istanbul and Istanbul has become the sum of all of Anatolia.

The city of seasons and the sea

So, what can we say about Istanbul's unique characteristics? As with any city, it is impossible to describe Istanbul without first mentioning the characteristics afforded by its location and geography. With the unique presence of the Bosphorus, Istanbul is first and foremost a city of the sea. Throughout history, Istanbul has had a particular fish calendar. There’s a season for every fish, and the people of Istanbul were well aware of how each one should be cooked according to its season. When the early-season bonito is lean, it is pan-fried; as it grows larger and fattier, it is grilled or steamed with bay leaves. Towards the end of September, the queen of the Bosphorus, the bluefin tuna “lüfer” makes her appearance. The Black Sea anchovies must be eaten only after the first snowfall, and the fish calendar closes with the diva of the seas, the Black Sea turbot.

Istanbul people possess this knowledge; for them, the kitchen has seasons. Although many vegetables are available year-round today, in the past, everything had its season, and Istanbul cuisine was shaped accordingly. Before Hıdırellez, lamb was not eaten, lettuce belonged to May, and it was considered obligatory to eat artichokes for at least forty days during artichoke season. In the summer months, eggplant season would turn Istanbul into a fire hazard, with sparks flying from frying pans and wooden houses burning like tinder, making eggplant fires the fear of August. The truly sun-ripened tomato only appeared in August, too, — when the rice pilaf took on its signature red hue, gracing every table with that deliciously buttery, tomatoey flavor. Seasonality ruled the culinary calendar; it was like an unwritten but strictly followed rule. In short, Istanbul does not have a singular taste to represent the city, but many seasonal tastes, presenting a never-ending cornucopia of culinary experiences.