Chestnuts roasting on an open fire!
Chestnuts roasting on an open fire! Hearing this timeless, festive tune makes me crave chestnuts. Boiled, roasted, or even raw — any kind will do! But here in Türkiye, there’s really only one true answer: “Kestane kebap!”
When the cold really sets in during the winter months, chestnut kebabs are the most heartwarming, belly-filling treat on the streets. Don’t expect something skewered with meat or similar; “kestane kebap” simply means roasted chestnuts, “kestane” being the Turkish word for chestnuts. There’s no fat, no meat, no salt, no sugar, just plain chestnuts roasted in a pan over a fire. Kebab is a word mostly associated with grilled meat skewers, but in Turkish, it can be used for non-meat foods that are dry-cooked over a fire. For example, grilled corn-on-the-cob is also called “mısır kebap,” which literally means “corn kebab.”
A seasonal delight — or maybe not?
Chestnut kebabs are a wintertime staple. Whether you buy them from a street vendor in a paper cone or bag, or make them at home, they are always satisfying. In the past, the smell of roasting chestnuts in Istanbul was a sign that snowy days were ahead. When chestnut vendors took over the ferry piers and street corners, it meant that cold weather had arrived. Like “boza”, the ubiquitous fermented grain drink, chestnut kebabs are synonymous with winter; they are the ultimate seasonal treat for cold days. Or maybe not anymore! Nowadays, chestnuts are available year-round, and chestnut kebabs can even be sold in the middle of summer. The opposite is true for corn kebabs, which used to indicate the start of the summer season; now we have them also year-round. Interestingly, in the past, there used to be an association for chestnut and corn kebab vendors because the same street vendors were supposed to switch selling either chestnuts or corn according to the season. The association still exists in Eminönü, Istanbul, but the vendors now sell both.
Speaking of the famous Christmas song that is played repeatedly on TV screens during the holiday season, it perfectly describes a typical winter night: with snow falling outside and chestnuts roasting by the fireplace. The interesting thing is that the song was written on a hot July day when the heat was unbearable. Songwriters Robert Wells and Mel Tormé were sweltering in the heat while working when the song spontaneously came to them. Wells scribbled down a few lines reminiscent of cold winter days to cope with the heat and left them on the piano, and eventually Tormé, noticing the scribbled notes, began to write the tune for the lyrics. Within a mere 40 minutes, one of the most beloved Christmas songs of all time was born.
How to roast?
Almost all countries in the continental climate belt have their own way of roasting chestnuts. There are always debates on how to roast chestnuts in the best way. Many tools have been developed for roasting chestnuts over an open fire or embers. In Japan and China, for example, they use large roasting drums similar to those used for roasting coffee. The perforated drum is placed over an open fire or on hot coals and the chestnuts are roasted as the drum constantly rotates. In China, chestnuts are also roasted in hot sand, but there is a chance that sand will get into the crevices of split chestnuts. As an alternative, a layer of coarse salt can be placed on the bottom of a tray or pan set over the coals or placed in an oven. Salt-roasting imparts a savory taste that contrasts with the natural sweetness of the chestnuts. This sweet and salty contrast is sometimes achieved by soaking the incised chestnuts in a bath of water with salt & sugar added. Either way, the taste always comes from the fire.
The Italians regard chestnuts as the bread of the poor. Chestnuts are indeed rich in carbohydrates and are therefore as filling as bread. During difficult times, especially in mountainous regions where wheat did not grow and flour was unavailable, bread was made from chestnut flour. Chestnuts came to the rescue of villages in the Italian Alps during periods of war and other difficult times. Chestnuts roasted on the streets are the most beloved winter treat, not only in mountainous regions, but also in cities. If you see a street vendor stand in Italy with "Caldarroste" written on it, you know it's a chestnut seller. The Italian word for chestnut, "castagne," is similar to ours, but many different regional words are used for roasted chestnuts. "Caldarroste" is the most common word used down from Sicily, up to Milan.
In Italy, there are special perforated roasting pans called “padelle per caldarroste” made for making roasted chestnuts. Imagine a pan with large holes in the bottom, similar to a colander. The holes are big enough to let the fire pass through, but small enough that the chestnuts won’t slip through and fall into the fire. Most Italians wholeheartedly believe that the best roasted chestnuts are made in these special chestnut pans. This is best displayed in a scene from the 1959 movie “La Grande Guerra/The Great War,” an anti-war tragicomedy where two reluctant soldiers are in a trench against the Austrian army. They want to roast a few handfuls of chestnuts they have, but they don’t have a chestnut pan. One of the soldiers waves the only pan they have outside the trench like a flag. The Austrian side immediately opens fire and the pan is riddled with bullet holes. Now the chestnuts can be roasted in the proper way.
The very idea of chestnut kebab is delightful. It warms the heart. Every time I have a handful of warm chestnuts, I remember this movie scene and smile as I peel my perfectly roasted chestnuts.