Chef Aras Çetin’s culinary storytelling

EBRU ERKE

At Zaaf, chef Aras Çetin follows his instincts instead of trends, serving up soulful, ever-evolving dishes that reflect his personal taste and creative spirit.

Aras Çetin is a chef who relies on his intuition. At Zaaf, the restaurant he opened in Levazım, the menu is ever-changing — he’s always tweaking it by adding or removing dishes. He sees the plate as a form of self-expression, creating and sharing what he personally loves. This approach results in truly unique and memorable flavors.

Every time I dine at his restaurant, I can’t shake the thought that if even a fraction of Istanbul’s neighborhoods had a place like Zaaf, the gastronomy of this city would be the talk of the world. Tucked away on the slope from Levazım to Ortaköy, this is a small, personal chef’s spot. But don’t expect intimidating or overly elaborate plates — at Zaaf, Chef Aras Çetin lets his instincts shine through a menu full of deeply personal, heartfelt dishes.

Aras proudly shares that he’s a graduate of MSA (Academy of Culinary Arts) whenever he gets the chance. After gaining experience as a sous-chef in various restaurants, he launched Zaaf Istanbul in Galata, initially offering only private dining for select groups. Later, he relocated it to its current spot, opening the doors to a wider audience. It’s hard to define Aras Çetin using traditional labels — while he’s certainly skilled and technically proficient, his true focus lies in expression. For him, the plate is a means of expression, a way to craft and share what he’s passionate about.

Zaaf’s menu is constantly evolving—shaped by the seasons and, just as much, by Aras’s shifting moods. But despite the changes, some dishes earn such a devoted fanbase that they’re nearly impossible to remove. Take the “messy lasagna,” for example: made with handmade sheets of pasta casually layered, not meticulously arranged, and mixed with a rich Bolognese sauce crafted from rib meat and a creamy Parmesan sauce. It’s the kind of dish that keeps you coming back for more — so delicious it silences any guilt you might feel. So really, why swap it out for another pasta? Even when we crave culinary adventure, isn’t there always room on the table for our irresistible favorites.

Another dish that Aras just couldn’t take off the menu is the crispy honey truffle pastry. Delicately rolled dough is stuffed with medium-fat feta and baked until golden and crisp. Once out of the oven, it’s finished with a drizzle of light truffle paste and honey. Aras and I actually spent a good few minutes mulling over which type of honey would pair best with the pastry. If you’re familiar with my column, this kind of deep dive might sound familiar. Personally, I believe that highland honey — with its subtle aroma and soft floral finish — complements the truffle more gracefully than the more assertive flavors of pine, chestnut, or oak honey. In fact, the honey Aras uses is carefully chosen with that exact balance in mind.

The “sujuk” starter at Zaaf, in my view, redefines tradition. Why? Because the filling inside the brioche isn’t your typical sujuk—it’s a spiced minced meat blend that’s a staple in Kayseri, often prepared by local butchers and commonly served at iftar (though I think it’s just as perfect for breakfast). When this rich, flavorful meat meets hummus, a tangy pickle relish sauce, and a tahini-molasses mayo, all tucked into a slightly sweet, milky-soft bread, the result is a bold, confident dish that speaks volumes about the chef’s creative flair.

If you’re a fan of offal, the kokoreç at Zaaf is a must-try. Aras crisps up fresh lamb kokoreç sourced from Balıkesir and serves it over a layer of harissa sauce, all laid on a thin flatbread. As for the mains, alongside the messy lasagna, there’s a saffron risotto paired with Milanese-style lamb shoulder, roasted anglerfish, and a dry-aged rib steak. Even though there are just four main courses, the selection feels focused rather than limited — and by the time you reach this part of the meal, you’re likely already quite full from the generous spread of nine starters.

The dessert menu at Zaaf is just as minimal as the mains — there’s only one option. Why? Because no matter what Aras adds, nothing seems to outshine the tiramisu that’s been a staple since day one. Inspired by a technique he learned from a skilled Italian chef, his version is looser in texture than what we’re used to and swaps out ladyfingers for biscotti. It’s a dessert that confidently holds its own against the best Italian renditions out there. Lately, Aras has teamed up with Oğuz Yenihayat to create over-the-top sandwiches that they’ve been showcasing on social media — stuff that seriously tests the limits of human appetite. Could this be the beginning of a sandwich-focused spot from Chef Aras? I’d say it’s likely — and if it happens, I have a feeling it’s going to be something special.