Future Forward: 25 years of gastronomy and architecture in Basque country
Landing in Bilbao airport stirs mixed feelings in me. Looking out of the plane window Calatrava greets me with an almost cynical sharky smile, or so I think, as if saying you are here for food, but I’ll haunt you with architecture. Sometimes the airport building by Spanish architect/engineer Santiago Calatrava is likened to a hawk bird, rather than the peaceful popular nickname of “The Dove” or a mini-Concorde ready to take off. The small airport in the countryside has bigger impact than expected, hints to expect the unexpected in the Basque Country. And when I say mixed feelings, I’m here for the 25th anniversary of the Gastronomika conference, so I’m supposed to focus on gastronomy, but my inner-architect self keeps shifting the focus to buildings, both old and new. With too many distractions, starting from Frank Gehry’s iconic titanium-cladded Guggenheim building to the Kursaal Congress Center by Spanish architect Rafael Muneo, where Gastronomika is taking place, it is hard to focus on the conference only.
Kursaal building, perched on the beachside in Donostia-San Sebastian, was built on a site named for long as the K-plot, where once an elegant casino building dated 1921 dominated the scene. The old building was pulled down in 1973, and what to do with the empty plot stirred heated arguments for many years. Eventually, after several proposals, the project of Rafael Muneo was chosen, but many objected to the new structure which consisted of two massive semi-transparent prismatic structures, which were meant to represent two immense beach rocks. The huge cubic structures clashed with the baroque elegance of the existing Donostia buildings, especially contrasting Maria Cristina hotel just on the other side of the Urumea river. However, within time the stormy arguments were calmed down, now it is a part of San Sebastian, and in a way accepted by locals, maybe because it became an international attraction itself, hosting the most important gatherings such as the Gastronomika event. The first talk of the Gastronomika conference this year was by Josean Alija, chef of the Michelin-starred restaurant Nerua, located inside the Bilbao Guggenheim building. Interestingly his talk titled “25 Years of ‘Muina’” was about his own culinary voyage, Gastronomika shaping his cuisine, giving him an opportunity to take stock and rethink the future. His presentation naturally included images of the Guggenheim building in which his restaurant Nerua is situated. Suddenly, I realize that here in Basque country, gastronomy and architecture is intertwined, they have a destiny woven together. About a quarter of a century ago, they have taken daring steps to shape their future, and decidedly paved a new way both in gastronomy and architecture.
Another proof of this “paving a new path” challenge is definitely the Basque Culinary Center, which is also celebrating its 25th anniversary. Already being housed in a much-visited architecturally aspiring building by Spanish architects VAUMM, they are ready to take a daring step to build another challenging building right in the heart of the city, a wavy strip of architecture that will flow alongside of mount Ulia blending into the cityscape integrating the nature and urban fabric. Designed by the famed Danish architect group BIG, it is meant to create a Gastronomy Open Ecosystem, or GOe, a hub of innovation, embodying the fusion between gastronomy, talent, science, entrepreneurship and the city and described as an architectural extension of the dramatic landscape and cityscape. Basques surely like heated debates, stormy arguments seem to be in the natural climate of the Atlantic town. During my visit I hear from locals that there are objections to the new building. When I ask to Joxe Mari Aizega about the objections, he is optimistic about the future, says it is mostly the neighbors that are skeptical about the project, but he firmly believes that it will bring a totally new angle to the city. What can I say, Basque country has countless records of successful steps they have taken and the new building of Basque Culinary Center will definitely be a new destination for fan-followers of gastronomy and architecture.
This year's Gastronomika conference was like the official parade of Spain's 25-year gastronomy challenge. I was fascinated to learn about the adventures of all Spanish chefs, such as Ferran and Albert Adrià brothers, Juan Roca, Diego Guerrero, Andoni Luis Aduriz, who have a groundbreaking impact on the world today, and last but not least José Andrés, who extended a helping hand to Türkiye during the earthquake. They all started at a very young age, and from very humble beginnings, they have all become culinary icons, inspiring others from around the globe. They were all sprung from the fertile gastronomy climate created across Spain, and have become courageous warriors to create the revolutionary change in Spain. It was also fun to listen to the countless anecdotes about the personal adventures of Denmark's taboo-breaking chefs René Redzepi and Rasmus Munk, how inspiring they have been on their own culinary adventures. It must be noted that, it is not always all about the new, and the challenging. There is always a reference to the local and the traditional, this quarter-century-old gastronomy initiative has created a bridge between tradition and the future. The best example of this is Elena Arzak, who carries the flag of the Arzak restaurant, which dates back to 1897, to the future by taking it from her father, Juan Mari Arzak. Another mention must go to architect Manu Lamos, Elena’s husband, who completely transformed the façade of the Arzak restaurant, with glittering diamond-shaped claddings resembling fish scales. Seeing father and daughter together on stage is an indication that tradition is the basis of the future.
As I follow the talks, and also stroll along the streets of San Sebastian, I also see that it is not all about the new and the challenging. Tradition is kept alive. Architectural heritage protected, food traditions are kept strong, the original tastes are still at every other corner. The local produce is honored and supported. The interesting that always fascinates me is that they also make something big, about a humble dish that has existed here for ages. Gastronomika conference also holds competitions on beloved local dishes, such as their traditional apple tart “Torta de Manzana” or the once new, now totally localized “Russian Salad.” Just across the glittering cube, I take my last glass of Txakoli wine and my devoted reader from Basque, Regina Davies orders the nostalgic Russian salad. It is different from what we have in Türkiye, had fish incorporated in it, but I find it so fascinating that “Salade Olivier” that was invented in the 1860s by the Belgian cook Lucien Olivier, the chef of the Hermitage, has taken roots both in Türkiye and Spain, the two far apart countries on either side of Europe.
It seems that about a quarter century ago, the Basque Country was a very interesting place to take fast forward decisions to take drastic steps to shape their future, both architectural and gastronomical. After 25 years, they are not holding back and ready to go future forward, never forgetting their cultural heritage, culinary legacy and tradition. In his moving speech, Jose Andres says all regions of Spain should have such conferences. I’m sure they will do so!
While Spain and the Basque region celebrate the 25th anniversary of their gastronomy breakthrough, it continues with brand new projects for the future and gives signals they will continue to be pioneers in the future. Of course, it is a source of pride for us that our own phenomenal social gastronomy chef Ebru Baybara Demir received the Basque Culinary World Prize this year. I wish, inspired from that other corner of the continent, we could create such quarter-century visions and plan our gastronomy future with long-term projects, not short-term events!
