Discovering ancient history and story of the İshak Paşa

Wilco van Herpen DOĞUBEYAZIT - Hürriyet Daily News

Once people enter İshak Paşa it opens up in front of your eyes like a flower, revealing all the details that have been used to make it overwhelming for visitors. Photo by Wilco Van Herpen

For centuries people have vistited İshak Paşa palace in Doğubayazıt. In the past people would go there by donkey, horse or camel but since the last hundred years visitors have come by bike, motorcycle or cars (and even some by busses). I, however, found a very unique way to travel to Doğubayazıt. A friend of mine brought me to the gates of the palace by… bat mobile.

In Doğubayazıt there is a group of inventors who do very interesting things. They designed a landmine detection vehicle, a landmine destroyer and many more things. As one of their most outspoken projects they made a bat mobile. While I was talking to my inventor friends I heard a sound far away. The door opened as if it was a fighter jet. The driver climbed out and when he saw my astonished face he smiled. Everyone who sees this car for the first time looks like the way you do he told me.

‘Do you want to ride in my bat mobile,’ he asked? And of course, how can I refuse such a unique offer. I climb in the car and closed the door. In front of us but still very far away I can see İshak Paşa palace. We start climbing the mountain and the bat mobile, with the sound of an angry lion, does the job without any problem. Within minutes we are in front of the gates of İshak Paşa palace but it is still not enough for the driver. İshak Paşa palace is a story on its own. The palace is impressive both from the outside as well as from the inside. It starts at the main entrance. The decoration of the front gate is so fine and so well done; it looks as if the craftsman finished the job yesterday. Once you enter İshak Paşa it opens up in front of your eyes like a flower, revealing all the details that have been used to make it overwhelming for visitors. You feel your self tiny and nothing and I think that was exactly what the Paşa’s of that time wanted to achieve. They were the rulers and the ordinary people should drown in what they would see. They would definitely have felt the incredible gap between their ruler and themselves. For the guests of the Paşa there was of course another message; see my overwhelming richdom and power. I can create a palace like this in such a place, who can create something even better and more beautiful?

Standing at the inner place there are numerous doors leading to all different kind of rooms and places. But it is impossible to just enter the building without looking at the work the people did to decorate the door. It is as if all the doors have their own story to tell the visitor. Trees of life, flowers, lions and many more motives and symbols were used to decorate the entrance.

One of the buildings inside the palace is a little mosque. The old paint decoration still, although vanished by time, remains. But the stairs are narrow and about half the height of what I am. Finally my tour is about to end. I was sitting in the window overlooking the plane of Doğubayazıt. It was a beautiful day with some very dramatic clouds floating by.

The sun was slowly setting and gave a beautiful orange light that made İshak Paşa even more fascinating. Long dramatic shadows change the empty and undecorated rooms into a piece of art. I walk back to the main entrance. As soon as I put one step outside he directly locks the door, walks to his moped and goes home.