Istanbul’s musical ferry can be a soulful experience

ISTANBUL – Agence France-Presse

It’s already one of the world’s most original commutes: The ferry trip between Istanbul’s European and Asian sides gives a daily quarter of a million passengers unforgettable views on their way to work.

Now the Turkish city is offering music to offset the seascapes, and for the amateur musicians providing it, it’s a chance to make some crucial money.

The musicians work hard to ensure their music reflects Istanbul’s unique position.

“We travel back and forth between the two continents and we try to express emotions sparked by the two cultures: A kind of fusion, a synthesis,” Oğuzhan Erdem, one of the ferry musicians, told AFP.

Until recently, ferry musicians played without authorization, but city authorities realized they were missing an opportunity and launched a project to make them an official part of the experience.
Erdem plays the Turkish “ney” reed flute, an instrument traditionally used by Sufis, a mystical branch of Islam, while his band mate plays a Western-style keyboard.

“It’s merging the East with the West,” said Erdem.

In total, 82 musicians work on the intra-city line from 9 a.m. until the last ferry at 1 a.m.
Ferry musicians rely on the tips to make their living.

Erdem, who also plays in the streets and with his band “DoğuBang,” had failed to find work as an interior designer.

“The job market is so bad. When I was brooding over what I will do, I saw a young girl singing in the ferry one day and asked myself ‘why don’t I give it a try’,” he said.

He has now been playing the ney on ferries for the past nine months.
Istanbul is full of buskers, both Turkish and foreign, particularly on its busy shopping hub of İstiklal Avenue.

Eren Koç, who plays the keyboard, is a sculptor by profession and found himself playing on the ferries after visiting the city for one of his exhibitions.

“There are interesting moments on the ferries. When applause suddenly breaks out or some people stand up and dance, it is like being in a movie,” he said.

For some commuters, it can be a truly emotional experience after a hard day at work.

“The tunes speak to my soul and rest my mind. It takes me back to the past,” said Nimet, with tears in her eyes as she listened to the ney.

“Like the water flowing in the Bosphorus, it is triggering a flow of emotions inside,” she said, wistfully.

Tunç Baydar, coordinator of the project for the municipality, said musicians playing in an unauthorized fashion had previously caused problems for the crew and security personnel.

“We kicked off the ‘Music on the Ferry’ project in 2016 so that we could create an environment for those musicians to play in the ferry with permission, more comfortably,” he said.

“We have turned the ferry musicians into part of our brand.”

Baydar said that they were always on the lookout for new talented musicians.

“We watch their videos on social media. We’ve even begun recruiting conservatoire students.”

Many world capitals have great buskers, and some have even become megastars like Ed Sheeran, but few cities offer as stunning a backdrop.

“We listen to music in the metros in Europe but it’s so beautiful on the sea,” said Berker Çolak, a tourist from Germany who came to Istanbul with his fiancé.

“The seagulls and the music create a really authentic ambiance, a real harmony.”